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	Gear

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I have no affiliation with any of the products mentioned here.

The great thing about running is that you really don’t need a lot of equipment to do it. As you get into it more and more you can invest in the things that you feel will make your experience better.

Race expos are a great opportunity to check out the latest gear from some of the top vendors in the sport.

Consider putting your name in your gear like gloves and hats that might get dropped while running.

DC Rainmaker has very detailed and unbiased reviews of technical gear.

Shoes
You do need to invest in some good running shoes. It is best to go to a store that deals mainly with runners. The sales person can take a look at your stride and feet and fit you in a shoe that is best suited for you. Sure these are expensive, but if you don’t get a good fitting shoe you can end up with all kinds of injuries. Once you find a shoe that you like then the next time you can shop around to find the best price. Some stores will even let you try a shoe and if it doesn't work exchange it for another.

Clothes
You want to wear as much technical clothing as possible – NOT cotton. Cotton holds water which can make you cold and it gets heavy. Synthetic fabrics will wick sweat away from you to evaporate. Just about all shorts are synthetic, but use tech t-shirts when possible. Socks are especially important. Find a good brand that wicks moisture away from your feet. Wet cotton socks are much more liable to cause blisters.

A raincoat, long sleeve shirts, tights, scarf or gaiter, hat and gloves are all good investments to improve your comfort. Consider buying them in January or February at the end of the cold season, you’ll find better prices then.

These will also function well in just cold conditions because they block the wind. I really hate to see people out in the cold with a jacket made with a wide mesh fabric that lets the wind right through. A jacket that blocks the wind will hold your body heat much more efficiently. You can use the zipper to adjust the temperature.

Hoods can be used to cover your head in the rain.  In the cold, your body loses most of its heat through your head, so covering it with a hood will make you warmer.  Integrated hoods are better than ones that snap on because they can get lost. When the hood isn’t needed, roll it up or tuck it inside, down your back to prevent it from acting like a parachute and slowing you down. Some raincoats have zippered vents under the arms that can be used to adjust your temperature. And some even have integrated gloves or mittens which is really convenient because you don't have to remember them (they are always there) and you can't lose them.

If it gets too warm, you can stow a jacket easily as a belt.

GPS
A GPS watch is another big investment. These are great for monitoring your current run and also for keeping track of your progress over time, achieving goals, and helping predict times. I use a Garmin 310 XT. It is a bit old and large, but it has an abundance of configurable features that I really enjoy and make use of. I also use an optional heart rate monitor and foot fob to keep track of my cadence and to measure my distance when I am running indoors. It has up to 4 screens with up to 4 metrics each. You can chose from about 40 different metrics to display. I like the user configurability of it.

Hydration
Hydration systems are very much a matter of personal preference. Some people just hold a water bottle in their hand. They do make ergonomic holsters for water bottles so they are attached to your hand. Others prefer to wear a belt with multiple small bottles. Still others like vests with larger bladders. These are mainly used for trails and in remote locations where you have to carry your own water for extended periods of time away from civilization.

Hydration belts are the most popular and carry 20 to 40 ounces of water or nutrition. They come in a wide variety of models. Be careful to get one that fits well and doesn’t cause any chaffing.

Handhelds are limited to about 20 ounces each; you can carry one in each hand. Carrying in only one hand may throw off your gait especially if you are lighter in weight. Try switching hands every mile to be better balanced.

Hydration packs hold as much as 100 ounces of water. They are used for longer unsupported runs. You should only use water in them because they are more difficult to clean. Get one that fits you well and doesn’t bounce. After you fill it up, burp it to remove any extra air in the bladder to keep it from sloshing – which can be annoying to you and others. They usually have some extra storage space for carrying things like keys, phone, flashlight, first aid, nutrition … There are several style bladders. I like ones with a wide mouth so I can add ice cubes.

Not sure what to do? Try carrying a water bottle in your hand just to see if you like it – they are free!  Talk with friends about what they use and how they like it.  Try belts or vests on at a store.  Bounce around to see if they are going to stay put.

You might try carrying a water bottle in each hand to make you more balanced.  I just carry one because I like to have one hand free.  But I switch it between hands frequently.

I only use water in my hydration bladder. It is hard enough to clean. If I used some type of sport drink, then I’d have to spend more time each week making sure the bladder and especially the tube and mouthpiece were thoroughly clean. So, by using only water, I’m not providing any nutrition (and thereby encouragement) to all those little nasties. They make a small brush for cleaning the drinking tube. Clean it periodically by treating with a Polident™ tablet.

Rinse a container out thoroughly after using and let it dry out. If it's been a while since you used it, you might want to use baking soda to remove any plastic taste. Dry it thoroughly after every use.

Water is heavy. It weighs 8 pounds per gallon, 2 pounds per quart, 1 pound per pint. The extra weight will slow you down. Every extra pound will make you 1 to 2 seconds slower per mile. So carrying a vest with 2 quarts of water (total of 7 pounds) would slow you down by 7 to 14 seconds per mile. That's 1.5 to 3 minutes slower in a half marathon. During races they provide frequent water aid stations, so you should not need to carry water during a race unless it is under extreme conditions.

A couple more things about hydration bladders. One very annoying thing is a hydration bladder that sloshes. Because it is right by your ear it can be noisy for you and the person following you. To avoid this, before your run, turn you bladder upside down so that the drinking tube is at the top and facing you. Hold the bladder so that the air bubble is centered on the drinking tube. Press on the bite value to open it while squeezing the bladder until all the air is removed and a constant stream of water is being squirted out. If temperatures are below freezing, you might have to blow into your bite valve to push all the water back into the bladder so that it doesn’t freeze in the drinking tube.

In warm weather fill it with ice cubes. Another method is to fill the container about three-quarters full with water and freeze. Top off with cold water and it should be ready when you need it.

Flashlight
A flashlight is another good investment if you are running at dawn or dusk or at night which frequently happens in the summer and fall. There are a number of different options: a headband, handheld, knuckle mounted, and hat brim. I sweat too much for a headband light, but if you get one it is best if the batteries are on the back of your head to balance the weight and minimize bouncing. They are convenient as they light up whatever you are looking at. Just be careful when talking to people that you keep your head down so the light doesn't shine straight into their eyes. Knuckle lights are very nice and easy to use. I find that hat brim lights aren’t bright enough. I prefer just a plain handheld one. They are inexpensive and easy to find in a lot of stores. Try to get one with a wrist strap just in case you happen to drop it.  If it doesn’t come with one, you can usually improvise by tying a loop of string to it. For those who don’t like to carry things in their hand try a knuckle mounted light.

Another option is to wear their light near your waist.  This allows your hands to be free and provides good shadows so you can see obstacles better.  But it needs to be fairly secure so it doesn’t bounce around too much. Some flashlights clip to your waistband or you can rig something up yourself.

Headlamps are convenient and one of the most popular, but their disadvantage is that the light is close to your eyes.  This reduces the amount of shadow and your view is more two dimensional. This is especially important on trails where you can’t see obstacles like roots and rocks as well because the trail looks flat.  By carrying a light in your hand or holding it even lower in really gnarly terrain it will cast longer shadows allowing you to see better. You can always take off a headlamp and hold it in your hand when the situation warrants it.

If you wear a headlamp, be careful around other people. The light points where you are looking and if you look someone in the face you will blind them with your light. Either aim your headlamp down low, train yourself to not turn your head and look directly at them, or take it off.

I prefer lights with 70 lumens or more. That is bright enough to see a bit in front of you for obstacles. And it is bright enough to get the attention of oncoming vehicles. Having a flashing light on your back makes you more visible from the rear. I like to wear them higher on my body because I think they are more visible there. Reflective patches on clothing are also helpful.

If you frequently run in the dark on trails you may want something even brighter so you can see further ahead. This will help you pick out the trail better and spot landmarks.

Some people like to carry spare batteries.  I like to carry a spare light just in case something should happen to my primary light.   Consider the consequences if your light goes out.  If you are in the city or with friends you may be able to get by with the light around you.  If you are out on a long run on a trail by yourself then you definitely want a backup plan.  It doesn’t have to be expensive or that bright.  Small flashlights are available in home repair stores and many other places for just a few dollars. 

It is very nice if the flashlight has a low and high power setting.  You can normally use the high setting, but if the battery starts getting low you can switch to the low setting to extend the time you have light.  The low setting may be pretty dim, but at least it is a light and it will last for a long time.

A flashlight that focuses can be very useful seeing things at a distance like if you are trying to follow a sparse trail or one with widely spaced markers.

A cell phone makes a convenient emergency light.

Flashlights can be placed in a clear plastic bag for protection against rain.

A dim flashlight can be held lower, closer to the ground to illuminate it better.

A string loop is handy for securing around fingers, hand, or wrist so it’s not as apt to be dropped. If it doesn't come with one, you can easily make one with a piece of string about 1.5' long. Secure one end to a ring on the flashlight or capture it inside the battery compartment. You can tie a knot on the end to secure it better. Wrap the other end around the remaining string and secure it with a couple of square knots. This will trap the string inside the knot so that the knot will slide up and down the string thus allowing you to adjust the length or tightness of the loop.

Frogg Toggs™ makes a good waterproof wide brimmed hat that is pretty popular.

Several companies make things called neck gaiters, buffs, headbands... These are versatile pieces of gear that can be used in a number of different hat-ish configurations.